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Pocket-Hole Joinery

Pocket Hole Image
Material ThicknessUse Screw Length
1/2", 5/8" 1"
3/4" 1-1/4"
7/8" to 1-1/8" 1-1/2"
1-1/4" to 1-3/8" 2"
Thread TypeMaterial
Fine "Hard" woods: Cherry, Maple, Oak, Walnut

"Soft" woods: Pine, Fir, Poplar, Cedar;

Super 8

Manmades: MDF, OSB & Particle Board
(Can also be used for soft wood)

Pocket-Hole Joinery: What you need to know!

Pocket-hole joinery is popular because it is a fast, strong, easily adaptable, precise method of assembly. Joints are as strong as mortise-and-tenon joints and can be made in a fraction of the time. Award-winning Kreg® Jigs use a 3/5" counterbore bit with an 11/64" pilot to drill and 15° angle into the first piece. With the joint tightly clamped, a special self-drilling pocket-hole screw is placed in the pocket and driven tight to complete the joint. Pocket-hole screws feature an auger point to prevent raising a chip between the two parts during assembly, ensuring a tight joint. A larger pan-head with a #2 Square recess and extended unthreaded shank enables the screw to draw the two members of the joint tight.

Pocket hole



Tech Tip: Plugging and Pocket-Hole

Pocket-hole plugs are cut at an angle so that they sit perfectly flush on the top of the screw head when fully inserted. A small amount of plug will remain above flush and will need to be trimmed off with a hand saw or sanded.

Pocket Hole PlugSteps to Plug a Pocket-Hole:

  1. Drill home to adequate depth, and drive screw to secure joint. Tip: Set your drill bit approximately 1/8" further from the step of the drill to ensure that the screw head will be deep enough for the plug to fully cover the pocket-hole.
  2. Glue and place. Place a fair amount of glue into the bottom of the pocket and around the perimeter of the plug. Press into place, and wipe away any excess glue.
  3. Trim or sand off excess plug. Softwoods can often be made flush with and orbital sander, while hardwoods will most likely require trimming with a flush-cut hand-saw before final sanding.