Back to Normal View
As most woodworkers are aware, as of January 1, 2004, the pressure treated lumber industry has voluntarily switched from CCA chemical processes to alternative treating methods such as ACQ. While significant testing has been performed on galvanized screws to ensure their compatibility with the new treatment processes, to date stainless steel is the only corrosion resistant material to have gained widespread acceptance for use with these new materials. ProMax™ Stainless Steel screws are the ideal choice for use with these new materials. Note that because of the inherently lower strength of stainless steel compared to hardened steel, ProMax™ Stainless Steel screws are all #10’s, which provides roughly the same torque strength as the #8 ProMax™ No-Co-Rode screws. Made in Taiwan / China. Unthreaded Length 1-9/16"
ProMax™ Optimized Thread Length™: What It Means and Why You’ll Like It!Deck screws are a good example of Optimized Thread Length. The screws normally used to install 2 x 4’s or 2 x 6’s for decking are 3 inches long and have 1 inch of unthreaded shank. Since 2 x 4 and 2 x 6 deck material is 1-1/2 inches thick, the threads bridge the joint, as shown, resulting in an uneven and unsightly surface, or screws that are over-driven trying to “pull the board down.”
ProMax™ screws are different: Thread length is optimized to eliminate crossthreading, and the 1/8” length system allows use of the longest possible screw. In most cases, the smooth shank and self-drilling point allow installation without predrilling! Just select a screw that provides an unthreaded shank length equal to or slightly greater than the material thickness being fastened.
(based on 1 review)
Reviewed by 1 customer
Displaying review 1
Back to top
(2 of 2 customers found this review helpful)
A great fastener for my use
from Saint Louis MO
Comments about 10 x 3-3/8 ProMax Wood Deck Screws, Stainless Steel, Flat Head, Square Drive:
I use these screws to affix deck boards (2 x 6) to treated-pine joists. They hold very well, but can be removed when necessary. In cedar, pilot holes are not necessary, although good at board ends; in treated pine, which is harder, pilot holes are important near the ends of boards, although otherwise not always necessary. They are sharp (both good and bad!). I am usually doing board-for-board replacement of 20-year old cedar, using fewer screws than the numbers of nails I remove with the old boards. It's easy to add more screws if the new boards aren't stable. And they seem to last longer than coated screws I used in the past (these rusted out in less than a decade). (The galvanized 12d nails I'm replacing have lasted very well, in contrast.)It would be useful if they were available locally, [...].They are expensive. And, compared to galvanized nails, they are soft enough that I have to be somewhat careful with them.
Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend
Was this review helpful? Yes / No
- You may also flag this review